NYFW Review: Calvin Klein's Fall 2009 Women's Collection

NEW YORK -- Francisco Costa's nearly all-black Calvin Klein collection was an amazing feat in fabric development marking a new moment for minimalism. In wool, jersey and silk jacquard, the shapes were geometric and cut close to the body. Dresses were put together like jigsaw puzzles and coats fell in crescent-shaped panels.

The fabrics were works of art, highlighting the fall trend of extraordinary surface details. A skirt suit was a constellation of tiny rips and tears, and a black crochet turtleneck sweater brought to mind a circuit board.

A crystal bonded coat had the sparkling texture of black granite in the sun, and a holey, felted wool sleeveless sheath the look of lace. An ivory crackle print shearling coat evoked pottery baking in the sun.

These clothes were interesting, challenging and wearable, unlike the geometric volumes from Costa's spring collection, which now seem like more of an intellectual exercise.