NYFW Review: 3.1 Phillip Lim's Fall 2009 Collection

The fantastic thing about a Phillip Lim collection is that no matter what the big idea is, almost anyone can find something to wear.

This season, Lim embraced fashion's well-worn rock theme, complete with live music from the band Lissy Trullie. That meant a cream doubleface wool "H:endrix" coat, a ruffled "dandy blouse," and a darling black-and-white rabbit print crinkled chiffon dress. Get it?

A Sgt. Pepper jacket was emblazoned with gold braiding, as you'd expect, and wispy (Celia) "Birtwell" dress in a black burnout floral with a charming beaded yoke.

But the magic is in picking apart the looks and finding versatile pieces such as a copper-foiled shearling bomber jacket, a goat fur vest with crystals at the shoulders, and a dusty rose crepe scalloped hem dress with Art Deco beading--- all of which, you know, will be priced to move. Special and affordable, that's Lim's designing genius.

NYFW Review: Calvin Klein's Fall 2009 Women's Collection

NEW YORK -- Francisco Costa's nearly all-black Calvin Klein collection was an amazing feat in fabric development marking a new moment for minimalism. In wool, jersey and silk jacquard, the shapes were geometric and cut close to the body. Dresses were put together like jigsaw puzzles and coats fell in crescent-shaped panels.

The fabrics were works of art, highlighting the fall trend of extraordinary surface details. A skirt suit was a constellation of tiny rips and tears, and a black crochet turtleneck sweater brought to mind a circuit board.

A crystal bonded coat had the sparkling texture of black granite in the sun, and a holey, felted wool sleeveless sheath the look of lace. An ivory crackle print shearling coat evoked pottery baking in the sun.

These clothes were interesting, challenging and wearable, unlike the geometric volumes from Costa's spring collection, which now seem like more of an intellectual exercise.

NYFW Review: Proenza Schouler's Fall 2009 Collection

NEW YORK -- There was a greatest-hits vibe to many of the collections shown last week in New York as designers stayed in their comfort zones, reiterating what they do best. For Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, that meant tapping back into the youthful, sporty spirit on which their line was founded. No more sculptural Mickey Mouse ear sleeves or costumey bobby hats -- just smart outerwear and cool girl dresses, albeit many of them too wintertime heavy for L.A.

Raglan sleeved peacoats and jackets in heavy charcoal and camel twill with black insets had a collegiate feel, paired with salt 'n' pepper tweed walking shorts and low-slung miniskirts. Mini-dresses with contoured panels of quilted forest green, navy, black and burgundy nylon had an outdoorsy feel, some with the bra-top effect that is a signature of the designers. Cable-knit tights and lug-soled boots completed the look.

The final dresses were collages of shredded violet, midnight blue or forest green velvet suspended on sheer black netting creating a sense of beautiful decay.